pib

Another Magical Day in the Yucatan

My goal as a travel facilitator is to create a perfect, memorable day. Perfect for those who have a soft spot in their hearts for the quiet, magical moments that travel is capable of providing; moments that can be transformative and immersive; that require little more than just letting go and living in the moment. In other words, more … and there’s that invented term again …. excursionary serendipity.

On this day, we were three; my two guests and I, off to visit a cenote and making a stop in the village of Ek Nakan, taking a photo or three of the magnificently Gothic yellow church and having a most delicious taco at the minuscule three-table restaurant named Janeth (the H is not a typo) recently opened and that shows a remarkable aesthetic sensitivity for such a small village with its checkered tablecloths and flowers on each table.

It occurred to me, since one of my guests was an avid as well as professional photographer, carrying an imposing Hasselblad to the wonderment of many, that there was a good photo op of some old stone gateposts leading into a cornfield: a shot I found particularly evocative.

Vamos?” I asked.

Vamos!” she agreed.

The photogenic gateposts in question

Upon arriving there, we saw cars parked and people milling about. A man strode out from among the group and offered up a welcome and greeted me by name. It was one of the men who work in the cooperative that is in charge of the beautiful cenote there. I then saw several more faces I recognized from the many visits to the village over the years. It turns out they were just pulling out of the earth pibes (the banana-leaf-wrapped tamales made for Hanal Pixan) and asked us to join them in tasting them right then and there.

We were soon surrounded by smiling, welcoming souls. We visited their altar, commenting on the photographs of the departed on display, taking more than one photo and just basking - that really is the word: basking like seals on a sunny beach - in their gentle, heartfelt hospitality. And while we felt welcomed and to be honest a little like distinguished guests, it was casual and genuine. I didn’t get the sense that they were kowtowing to the gringos. I quietly asked one of the men in charge if we needed to pay something or make a donation for eating half of one other tamales and sharing in their moment, and the answer was a firm para nada: absolutely not.

Promising to return in the near future we left with full bellies and hearts, marveling and commenting on the magic of encountering such a totally unscripted scene, here in the magical Yucatan.

Uxmal, again. It never disappoints!

Uxmal is probably the most popular destination for day trips from Merida, for cruisers and non-cruisers alike. The great thing about Uxmal is that besides being the best Mayan ruins site on the peninsula in my opinion, the road to and from Uxmal offers so many interesting places to stop for a photograph, a banana or some exploration. 

First stop is usually the town of Uman, and on this day, that is exactly what we did. There was a small mass happening in the enormous church so we didn't go in, and later a large Mercedes hearse pulled up with Jalisco license plates for some kind of funeral.

After stolling around Uman, having that banana in the market (you haven't tried a banana until you have tried a platanito dominicano) and taking a ride on the tricycle taxi, the next stop this day was Muna, where we visited Pedro (aka the Gourd Man) on his hilltop vantage point with the great view of the surrounding area.

A little shopping, a sip of fresh squeezed orange juice and we are on our way to Uxmal.

After Uxmal it was off-roading time and we rushed to get to the cenote in the middle of the jungle where thankfully no one else was around and no oncoming traffic on the tiny one way dirt path into the underbrush. You see, when you are in the middle of this tiny road and you see an oncoming vehicle, someone has to back up the entire distance traveled so it can be a bit hair raising.

Feeling refreshed and just a little peckish, we crossed the highway and made a quick stop at the Hacienda Ochil for a bite and found them ready to close for the day, but a little cajoling (and the fact that I have been here numerous times and the waiters took pity on us) enabled us to wrangle a couple of cervezas and some delicious sopa de lima which really hit the spot. Also, we were able to see that they really do make the cochinita pibil in a fire pit and don't cheat by sticking the pig in an oven.